Should​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ I Wash My Hair Before Hair Color?

It's the eternal beauty dilemma: do you go to the salon with hair that is "dirty" or do you wash it right before? If you've been wondering should I wash my hair before hair color, the answer is actually a "sweet spot" in the middle. Hair that is too oily can prevent your color from penetrating, however, hair that is "squeaky clean" can make your scalp feel like it is burning.

The Science of "Day-Two" Hair

Almost entirely the case for color services, 24 hours after washing is usually considered the best time. Washing hair means removing the natural oils (sebum) from hair. These oils serve as a very small "shield" for the scalp. Without these, the chemicals in the hair dye can cause the area to become itchy, red, and emitting a stinging sensation.

Still, today's dyes are much less harsh than they were a decade ago. If your hair is extremely greasy (like what happens on day 4 or 5), the dirt and oil buildup will form a barrier that even the most vibrant hair color can't penetrate will cause your hair to be unevenly colored.

Prep Guide: When to Lather Up

Different wash routines are required for different treatments or colors. To decide your wash schedule, refer to this table:

The "Dry Shampoo" Trap

One of the big mistakes people make when deciding whether or not to wash their hair before hair coloring is to skip the washing and at the same time, pile on the styling products. Dry shampoos, hairsprays, and serums are made from starches and silicones which "cover" the hair. If you have been using a week's worth of product on your hair, then washing it is a must. Chemical dyes can also interact with leftover styling products faster than you think leading to patchy or "muddy" results in the hair that is already colored.

The Takeaway

Basically, this means that hair should be clean but not "stripped." Washing with a gentle shampoo the night before your appointment is the best way to go and avoid the heavy conditioner or masks. This leaves the scalp comfortable and color-friendly.

Common Questions (FAQ)

Q: Should I show up with my hair wet? Absolutely not. Most permanent dyes are meant to be applied on dry hair. Water hydrates the hair's "pores," which means that there is no way for the color to get in.

Q: Does "Dirty Hair" make the color last longer? Not really. If the hair is too oily, the color might not take as deeply, leading to faster fading. "Fresh but protected" is always better for longevity.

Q: What if I have a very sensitive scalp? In that case, you should wait a full 48 hours. The layer of sebum that is there provides the best natural barrier against chemical ‍‌‍‍‌‍‌‍‍‌irritation.