Should​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ I Wash My Hair Before Coloring?

It's the dry-clean-or-dirty debate of the century: do you go with freshly washed hair or use the dirt to your advantage? Typically, when someone asks "should I wash my hair before coloring?", the answer is neither a complete yes nor no but rather something in between.

Notably, it was once advised to work on dirty hair, nevertheless, hair dyes have been changed. Here's a contemporary take on how to get your hair ready for a nice color.

The "Second-Day Hair" Sweet Spot

Most permanent and semi-permanent dyes work best on "Second-Day Hair". That is to say, the washing should have been done not earlier than 12 hours and not later than 24 before the appointment or the session you do by yourself.

Why?

The scalp keeps producing natural oil (sebum) that is the real microscopic shield. This protection layer is what prevents the skin from sensations like tingling or itching that are caused by ammonia or peroxide. On the other hand, if your hairs are very dirty (e.g., day 4 or 5), then these oils may hinder the process of dye soaking, thus, the result will be uneven coloring.

Quick Guide: When to Wash

The Dry Shampoo Warning

Here is an error that is committed by many: not washing but heavily using dry shampoo. Starch-based sprays and heavy leave-in products can build a physical wall around the hair shaft. In case you think about "should I wash my hair before coloring" after working out—definitely yes. Sweat combined with heavy product buildup is the worst enemy of your color, way worse than washing your hair with a fresh shampoo.

The Bottom Line

If to sum up the point in one sentence, do not come with hair that is "crunchy" from the product or dripping with oil. Try to keep the hair clean to yourself but still, give it a night to rest with its natural defenses.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I wash my hair right before I dye it? 

You may do it but only with a gentle shampoo and no conditioner. Conditioner closes the hair cuticle, which is the exact opposite of the way dye should interact with the hair.

Q: Should my hair be wet or dry when I apply color?

 The answer is dry hair unless the box or your stylist specifically says "wet balayage". Water saturates the hair 'pores' thus, there would be no space left for the pigment to bind.

Q: What if I have a sensitive scalp? 

Certainly, the waiting time should be at least 48 hours. That additional coat of natural oil is indeed your strongest protection against chemical ‍‌‍‍‌‍‌‍‍‌sensitivity.